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Wednesday, January 2, 2013

Only memories and memorials will remain


RIZAL WAS RIGHT: a person has to recall the lessons of his past to forge a better future. Taking this adage to embrace the Filipino nation means Filipinos must cast a studied eye at past greatness to exceed that greatness in the future.

This country is a Great Nation. But it is a Nation that has forgotten the meaning of greatness because it refuses to recognize the greatness in its past.

For some Filipinos whose minds are warped by the archetypal image of the downtrodden Pinoy, these bold statements will be shocking. These Filipinos will be hard pressed to remember a time in our history when Filipinos were great.

What they will see are some four centuries of unrelieved Spanish tyranny; close to five decades of petty American “culture” and three years of inhuman Japanese brutality.

Where is the greatness in this litany of oppression?

Memories of Filipino greatness
The greatness lies in that the Filipino Nation defeated four centuries of imperial racism by these colonial empires.

The greatness lies in the Filipino Nation defeating the hated Spaniards in 1898. A local revolt in what is now Quezon City triggered in 1896 by an obscure warehouse helper named Andres Bonifacio grew so rapidly that it had reduced Spain’s hold on the Philippines to the single city of Intramuros by 1898.

Filipino revolutionaries, mostly unlettered farmers armed with bolos and bamboo spears and emboldened by an enduring hatred of the Spaniard, had inflicted a humiliating defeat on the Spanish Empire and had wrested control of Las Islas Filipinas from the unwelcome invader.

Independence would have been ours had not the Americans intervened in 1898. It became ours in 1946 but only after a vicious war against the barbaric Japanese that left some one million Filipinos dead by 1945, out of a population of only 17 million Filipinos.

Filipino guerillas, mostly unlettered farmers armed with bolos and bamboo spears like their Revolutionary fathers and emboldened by an intense hatred of the Japanese, had helped inflict one of the greatest military defeats in the history of the Empire of Japan.

Of the 380,000 Japanese invaders in the Philippines in October 1944, only 40,000 remained alive when the Imperial Japanese Army surrendered to Filipinos in Kiangan, Ifugao on September 2, 1945. The Philippines was the largest grave of Japanese soldiers in Southeast Asia during World War 2.

What is not well known even until today is how effective the Filipino was in the guerilla war against the Japanese. When the Americans returned to the Philippines at Leyte in October 1944, Filipino guerillas controlled 36 of the Philippines’ 48 provinces.

This almost complete Filipino domination of the countryside meant that fighting was limited to pockets of Japanese resistance, mostly in the larger cities in Luzon, Visayas and Mindanao. Some of these pockets such as those in north Luzon proved difficult to crush, but the task of exterminating the Japanese would have been much harder for the Filipino-American allies had the Japanese held the countryside.

The Japanese did not, and this disadvantage proved fatal to them in the long-run since they were unable to deploy soldiers, equipment and supplies freely to where they were needed. Filipino guerillas blockaded roads, destroyed bridges and attacked Japanese convoys almost at will. American airpower constricted Japanese movements even more.

The great Battle of Bessang Pass in Ilocos Norte from February to June 1945—the greatest victory by Filipinos over the Japanese—was an all-Filipino battle that proved the martial superiority of Filipinos over the Japanese in the attack.

By defeating the entrenched Japanese who held positions in hills and ridges some 1,500 meters high, the Filipino guerillas of the United States Army Forces in the Philippines-Northern Luzon (USAFIP-NL) put to a victorious end to the most vicious close quarter battle of the Liberation, and finally surrounded the remnants of the Imperial Japanese Army in north Luzon in a ring of steel from which they were unable to escape.

Memorials to Filipino greatness
But it was the great defensive struggle for Bataan and Corregidor from January to May 1942 that most vividly illustrates the innate greatness of the Filipino.

Unprepared, ill-equipped and mostly untrained, the Filipinos of the Commonwealth Army fatally disrupted Japan’s timetable for conquest by their superhuman endurance and bravery. Our resistance against mammoth odds set the stage for an unbroken string of Japanese defeats that began at the Battle of Midway a month after the surrender of Corregidor, and ended with the annihilation of the Imperial Japanese Army in the Philippines in September 1945.

With our blood and suffering, we had bought time for the Americans to counterattack, and for Freedom to win in the end.

All this, most Filipinos of today remain contentedly unaware.

If you do want to be inspired by tangible monuments to our past heroism, go on a pilgrimage to Bataan and Corregidor, the Holy Shrines to Filipino Heroism.

But before you embark on the guided tour of these Sacred Grounds, first immerse yourself in their history. Read about our resistance in the Second World War so you will see beyond the immediate images of shattered buildings, massive mortars and battlegrounds long since overgrown with new grass.

Your mindset must be that of a religious pilgrim, not that of a tourist. A religious pilgrim sees the significance behind the symbols; a tourist sees symbols merely as backgrounds for his photographs.

Your tour guide will go on and on about battlegrounds that have since become tourist spots. He will crack jokes and in the main resemble something of an entertainer.

Forget his facetiousness, and remember the ground on which you tread has been sanctified by the blood of our grandfathers and fathers.  Tread lightly and with reverence.

This sacredness is more palpable on Corregidor. I visited “The Rock” on April 7 as part of a group that took part in the “Araw ng Kagitingan” (Day of Valor) commemoration. This group consisted of a few World War 2 veterans and a horde of young people who traveled to the island on board the BRP Pampanga, a search and rescue vessel of the Philippine Coast Guard.

The trip was arranged by the Philippine Veterans Affairs Office (PVAO), the government agency that looks after the welfare of Filipino veterans of all our wars and internal conflicts.

Corregidor had changed substantially since I last visited in the 1970s. It’s very tourist friendly, meaning that the wants and needs of tourists are adequately met by the island’s infrastructure and people.

Corregidor has been wonderfully preserved. The sheer commercialism of the tourist trade on which Corregidor thrives seems an affront to this Holy Shrine, but tourism seems the only way to make Filipinos realize the exceptional valor that ruled this island 60 years ago.

The massive mortars and guns of the Corregidor batteries remain the “star” of these guided tours. And, at every battery, tour guides give you ample time for “picture-picture.”

The guns have been painted a warm green. In contrast, they were unpainted when I first saw them decades ago. I must admit the dull and menacing color of naked steel was more impressive than the friendly green that coats these guns today.

At “Topside,” however, is the most imposing monument to Filipino gallantry on Corregidor. Here stands the “Filipino Heroes Memorial,” a shrine studded with statues and symbols honoring the Filipino soldier, guerilla and the Filipino Nation In Arms during World War 2.


 The most imposing, and the largest statue, is that honoring the Filipino guerilla. It depicts a muscular and bare chested Filipino farmer shouldering an Enfield rifle.

Wrapped around his left shoulder is the rope used to tie his carabao and resting against his right leg is the “araro” or plow used to till his field. A sheathed bolo hangs from a rope tied around his waist.

Behind him stands the tallest flagpole on the island from which flutters a huge National Flag.

It is an image both familiar and frightening. It is as if this gentle soul was forced into the brutal task of fighting so he could once again revert to his former and gentler self.

The many monuments on this island proclaim loudly about Filipino heroism and greatness. It will be impossible not to be awed by the magnificent symbolism.

On the sun-baked province of Bataan, however, the symbols to Filipino heroism are fewer and not at myriad as those on Corregidor. But they are much larger, and none is larger than the 92 meter tall Dambana ng Kagitingan Memorial Cross (Shrine of Valor Memorial Cross) at the peak of historic Mt. Samat.

The absence of massive guns and shattered buildings endows the Mt. Samat memorial shrine complex with a serenity that makes it difficult to comprehend the terror faced by Filipinos who stubbornly defended this ground against a better equipped enemy.

Here, on this hallowed ground 60 years ago, Filipinos fought the final actions in the doomed Battle for Bataan. They had held out months longer than the enemy anticipated, and had at one point come close to decisively defeating the Japanese in Bataan.

Here, Filipinos were shot, blasted, bayoneted and burned to death. Surrender did not halt their suffering. The murderous Bataan Death March saw the Japanese murder 10,000 surrendered Filipino fighting men along the 128 kilometer route from Bataan to Capas, Tarlac.

Try as one might, it proves difficult imagining that these horrific events took place here among the well-manicured gardens and lush greenery. Nature’s healing beauty has paved over the unspeakable horror this mountain witnessed six decades ago.


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